Whakapapa Ski Field (Your Ultimate Family Guide)
Nestled in the heart of the North Island lays Tongariro National Park and in the winter it’s home to Turoa and Whakapapa ski fields.
Located one hour and 50 minutes from Taupo and just over a hour from Turangi It’s also easily accessible from the North Islands main centres, four hours from Wellington and around 5 hours from Auckland.
Tongariro National Park is New Zealand’s oldest national park and is one of only three World Heritage Sites in the country. It is made up of three active volcanos; Tongariro (last erupted 21 November 2012), Ngauruhoe (last erupted 12-23 February 1975) a perfect cone shaped volcano and Ruapehu (last erupted 25 September 2007) the only skiable mountain.
During the winter months this part of New Zealand comes alive with locals and tourists from all over the world flocking to the nearby surrounding towns ready for an action fuelled few months.
However even in the summer months it’s often used by hikers especially the world famous ‘Tongariro Crossing’.
Stunning view of Mt Ruapehu and Whakapapa ski field from the bottom of Happy Valley
As a kid growing up I never ready visited Mt Ruapehu, my parents weren’t too big on winter activities. So the only chance I got was through school trips and I loved it.
The moment I was old enough to drive, my mates and I would head down a few times a season mainly to the Turoa side as we enjoyed hanging out in the small town of Ohakune with its cool night life. Plus when one of your best mates becomes a ski instructor and has accommodation then there is always plenty of space on the floor.
Now as a family we spend more time on the Whakapapa side. This is mainly due to the distance as it’s another 40 minutes drive to get to Turoa from there we live in Papamoa.
The ‘sleeping on the floor’ days are long gone and now it’s either a long day trip or a couple of night sin one of the many hotels/lodges around the area.
Whakapapa, as a ski field, has certainly improved over the last few years. The new Sky Waka (gondola) is impressive, great fun to ride and the views as you climb are spectacular.
It travels 1.8kms from the Base Station (at the bottom of Whakapapa) to the Knoll Ridge Chalet. On a clear day you can see for miles including views of neighbouring volcanoes, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro.
No better view on the clear day. Ngauruhoe in the foreground with Tongariro behind
Mountain Access and Parking
Check the daily mountain report to see what the road access is like. On days where the Bruce Rd is closed or access is only for 4WD then you will need to use the shuttle transport services.
Please don’t try and drive up on a 2WD if the road is only open to 4WD’s, it’s icy and I have sadly seen people try and do this. Their car just slides all over the icy road and inevitably they pull over or are forced to pull over.
Quite a few people will use the Park and Ride facility at National Park Village. Here there are various mountain shuttle companies that you can use to transport you up the mountain. They go quite regularly and are based at the end of Findlay road.
The cost is around $25-30 round trip per adult and about half that for kids depending on the company you use. Some also offer family deals as well. It’s probably best to pre-book especially on best days as they will full up quite quickly.
If the Bruce Road is open and you can drive up, try and park in the top three car parks. If these are full then park in a car park that has the ‘BUS PICKUP’ flag as the roaming bus is guaranteed to pick you up. It can be a pain having to carry all you gear to the base.
On the weekend you probably should book a carpark so you don’t miss out.
Returning down the mountain in the Sky Waka
Tickets
You can purchase tickets for Whakapapa ski field either at guest reservations or online, just be mindful that on busy days the queues can be long and make sure you are there early.
It is best to purchace online if you don’t want to queue. Once your book you will receive a QR Code and upon arrival just follow the signs to ‘collect online passes’.
There are a few machines inside, just scan your QR Code and within seconds out pops your lift passes. It’s that easy.
Rentals
There are two places where you can hire ski and snowboarding gear. You can hire everything you need for the day; ski/snowboard equipment, clothing (pants/jacket) and helmets.
Please note: you can’t hire goggles and beanies, you need to bring these with you. For those wanting to start their day at Happy Valley it’s best to take the elevator down and the rental shop is to your left.
For those looking to head up the mountain immediately then it’s best to to head to the rental shop just past guest information.
Mountain Trails
Whakapapa ski field has a range of beginner, intermediate and expert runs to meet everyones needs. These are all easily accessible via chairlifts, T-bars and the Sky Waka. Beginner 30% Intermediate 45% Advanced 25%. You can pick up your Whakapapa Ski Field map from guest reservations.
Cruising down on the Rangatira chairlift
Happy Valley
This is where you find plenty of families and beginners alike and it can get very busy on this part of the mountain.
The facilities here have improved with the new elevator access making Happy Valley ease to access than its once two person chairlift. The Happy Valley cafe is locate here along with the rental shop. There is only one chairlift here so on busy days wait time can be long but here are two carpets lifts as well.
Happy Valley is also where you will find sledding slope, great fun for the family. It costs $20 an hour and includes a sled, you can’t bring your own sled to Happy Valley.
However if you are looking to ride for free and use your own sled then we have seen people having a blast behind the customer service building.
There was once a time where you and the family could spent the day of Happy Valley and just play, build snowman and slide around.
In fact, you only needed a lift pass to access the chairlift. Today that has all changed, now with the electronic gates you MUST have a lift pass to get on the snow as it’s all fenced off.
The best way and cheapest way to access the snow is to buy a sledge pass and then spend as much time as you can on the snow.
Prices
The best value is to get an early bird season pass if you are going to ski/snowboard. These come out towards to end of the season for the following season. Of course you would only purchase these if you intend to visit more often.
The best way to see if you are going to get value for money is to divide the cost of a season pass by a day pass and that would tell you the amount of days you would need to be on the mountain to break even e.g. weekday season pass $299 divided by a weekday day pass $74 = roughy 4 days.
You can purchase days passes (week day and weekend prices are different), either All Mountain or just Happy Valley. You can also rent equipment as well as pants and jackets to keep you warm and dry if you don’t have them.
If you are just visiting, without the skiing or snowboarding, then you can purchase a Sky Waka pass to take you up the mountain.
Looking down at Whakapapa Ski Field for the Sky Waka
Food
Whakapapa ski field consists of 3 cafes and all offer a wide variety of food options and drinks. Personal we always bring our own food and snack, a lot cheaper though sometimes we purchase the odd hot beverage and hot chips.
– Lorenzo’s is located at the base and here offers a variety of breakfast and lunch options
– Pātaka (The Larder) at Knoll Ridge Chalet has a range of food options from a buffet to cabinet food along with 3 different dining areas. The price is ok but we certainly don’t dine in, instead we usually purchase a couple of coffees and hot chocolates and admire the view above heading off. Remember you need to take the Sky Waka to visit here.
– Happy Valley Bistro down in Happy Valley also has a variety of coffee and food options including cabinet food.
Whakapapa Accommodation
There are plenty of great places to stay on and around the mountain. If you do fancy staying up on the mountain then it’s best to join one of the club-operated lodges, these can be fun but you will be to come prepared.
At the bottom of the Bruce road you will find Whakapapa Holiday Park, Skotel Alpine Resort and if you can afford it, the Tongariro Chateau. National Park is only 9km’s from Whakapapa Village and has a range of hotels, B&B’s and lodges to meet everyones needs.
We often stay in National Park and prefer The Park Hotel. It is a good budget option and has a range of amenities. The rooms (from twin to super family) are quite spacious and include ensuite bathrooms.
The restaurant area is large and there is plenty on the menu to keep everyone happy including a children’s menu. They also serve a buffet breakfast.
For those looking for a drink at the end of a long day on the mountain there is a small bar just of to the side of the restaurant.
Chance to grab a quick photo at the top of the Sky Waka
Whakapapa Information Centre
This is a great place to stop in and check out. The Whakapapa Information Centre is located just past the Tongariro Chateau.
Here you can learn about the history of the area. There are audio-visual displays, exhibits on the volcanos, history of Maori and the cultural importance of the land, 3D model of the National park as well as information/reports of the ski field.
It’s also a great way to spend a couple of hours if the mountain is on hold. Here to kids (and adults) will learn so much and richer for the knowledge they have gained.
Best news it’s FREE!
What to bring
- Plenty of layers – whether conditions can change quickly. Best to be prepared
- Warm hat, scarfs, and waterproof gloves
- Sunglasses or Goggles
- Sunscreen and lip balm
- Warm waterproof pants and jacket though rentals are available on the mountain
- Food if you are not eating in the cafes
Sky Waka approaching the top station, up in the clouds
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the weather like on Whakapapa?
It can be great one day and crap the next. It’s always best to check the weather report before heading up. Road conditions are updated at 8am every morning. Best websites for Whakapapa weather reports are Metservice, SnowNZ and Mt Ruapehu
Which ski field is better Turoa or Whakapapa?
Whakapapa is the biggest ski field, has the Sky Waka for quicker access to the top of the mountain. Happy Valley is great for beginners, around 30% of the trails are for beginners.
Turoa has more intermediate and advanced and around 20% for beginners. The beginners area at the the bottom is smaller than Happy Valley.
Turoa tends to be open more than Whakapapa as its less windy on that side. At the end of the day give both a try and make the decision for yourself/
Where does the Sky Waka start?
The Sky Waka starts at the bottom of Whakapapa ski field
How much is the Sky Waka?
If you are not skiing, prices are below otherwise its included in your lift pass
Adults 18+ $39
Youth 5-17 $19
Infant 0-4 Free
Family 2 Adults and 2 Youths $99
Is Happy Valley still free?
To access the slopes on Happy Valley you will need a lift pass, gone are the days where you would freely roam around, build snowmen and bring your own toboggan.
Final Thoughts
A visit to Whakapapa ski field is not cheap. If you are just there for the day and plan to ski/snowboard, rent equipment, purchase a lift pass, shuttle bus should you need it, then it can add up.
Hence if you plan to visit a few times then purchasing an early bird season pass can save you loads. If it works in with your families lifestyle you might opt for the weekday season pass. This is considerably cheaper.
Weekends can be extremely busy and at times reach capacity, here you just need to arrive early and be prepared for longer lift waits.
However the facilities have improved so much over the recent years, it certainly first class.
The Sky Waka is an awesome experience and the views are like no other.
Happy Valley is also a great place to learn to ski. You can also keep your costs down by bringing your own food, renting ski gear off site (local shop) e.g National Park Village, Tuirangi etc.
Or if you and the family are just looking for a bit of fun and snow experience then either bring a sled or rent one off site (again Tuirangi/National Park Village) for around $10 and find your own spot to play.
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Meet the family
We are a family of 4 living in New Zealand. I’m a teacher (great profession for traveling) and my wife Connie works in project management. We are also proud parents of two travel-loving boys.
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Hi, I've been fortunate enough to have travelled for over 25 years. My parents gave me the travel bug when I was 10 years old by taking my sister and I to the USA and Mexico for two months. I've travelled by myself, with mates, with my wife and now as a family of four. My goal is to inspire our families to get out and see the world.
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